How to check designer clothing: labels, tags and seams

The brand label

• The logo, font and spacing match the brand's labels from the same season
• The label is stitched evenly and neatly on all sides where it should be
• The weave or print of the label is sharp, without fuzzy letters
• The size label uses the brand's own size format

Care tags and RN numbers

Care tags are where fakes often slip, because they are fiddly to copy well.

• Fabric content, care symbols and country of manufacture are printed clearly and spelled correctly
• The fabric content matches what the garment feels like (wool that feels like plastic is a bad sign)
• Clothing sold in the US often shows an RN number; you can look it up in the US Federal Trade Commission's RN database to see which company it belongs to
• Tags are made from the same quality material as the rest of the garment

Fabric and construction

• The fabric has the right weight, drape and feel for the price
• Patterns such as checks and stripes line up across seams and pockets
• Seams inside are neatly finished, with no loose threads
• Stitching is dense, straight and even

Buttons, zips and hardware

• Branded buttons have crisp engraving and feel solid
• Zips run smoothly; many luxury brands use high-end zip makers, but a common zip brand is not a sign of a fake on its own
• Snaps, rivets and buckles carry the right markings and finish
• Spare buttons, where included, match the garment

Streetwear and printed pieces

• Screen prints and embroidery are crisp, evenly coloured and placed where the brand puts them; cracked or blurry prints on a new item are a warning sign
• Neck labels can be woven or printed depending on the season, so check what the brand used for that release
• Wash tags often run to several pages, and the text should be sharp and consistent on every one
• A limited drop that sold out in minutes is rarely available new in every size afterwards

Authenticity labels

Some brands sew in an authenticity label with a code, QR code or NFC tag. These help, but only if you check them properly.

Photos to take for a check

1. 1The garment from the front and the back
2. 2The brand label, close up
3. 3The care tag, both sides, and any RN number
4. 4Buttons, zips and other hardware
5. 5Stitching and pattern alignment at the seams