How to check a luxury watch

Listen to the movement

The way the seconds hand moves tells you what kind of movement is inside.

• A mechanical or automatic watch sweeps: the seconds hand moves in many small steps each second, so it looks almost smooth
• A quartz watch ticks once per second
• Rattling, grinding or a seconds hand that stutters or skips markers is a warning sign on any watch

Weight and finishing

• The watch feels solid and dense for its size, like the genuine model
• Polished and brushed surfaces meet in crisp lines
• The bracelet links are solid and move smoothly, without rattling or sharp edges
• The crown screws down or pushes in smoothly and feels precise

The dial, close up

Use a loupe or your phone's zoom. Genuine dials are printed with great care, and this is where many fakes fall short.

• Printing is sharp, with clean edges and no bleeding or uneven thickness
• Hour markers and logos are perfectly aligned and evenly spaced
• The date sits centred in its window and changes cleanly at midnight
• On models with a date magnifier, the date fills the window rather than looking only slightly larger
• Luminous markers glow evenly after being in the light

Case back, serial and reference numbers

Serial and reference numbers sit in places that depend on the brand and the age of the watch: between the lugs, on the case back, or on the inner ring of the dial. Engravings should be crisp and deep, not shallow or sandy-looking.

• The serial number is where it should be for that brand and period
• The reference number matches the model, dial and bezel you are looking at
• The case back type is right for the model; a display back on a model that should be solid is a warning sign
• The numbers on the watch match the warranty card and papers

Papers, box and history

Box, warranty card, receipt and service records add confidence and value, but they are copied too. They help most when the details all agree with the watch.

• The warranty card shows the same serial and reference as the watch
• The dealer named on the papers exists and sells that brand
• Service papers come from the brand or a known watchmaker

Photos to take for a check

1. 1The dial, straight on and in focus
2. 2The case back and its engravings
3. 3The crown and the clasp
4. 4The serial and reference numbers
5. 5The box and papers, if you have them

Turn off the flash and tilt the watch slightly to avoid glare on the crystal. Glare can hide exactly the printing you want to show.